The first job, if the car has vents on the rear pillars, is to release or remove them altogether. They are usually fastened by screws, in which case the heads will be clearly visible, or by nuts, which are only accessible from inside the car. If it is with screws, loosen them and release the grille. If it is with nuts, it will be necessary to detach the upholstered panels that cover the rear pillars inside. If the car is four-door, first remove the rubber flange from the door opening from the top to the lock. There will be at least one screw at the bottom of the upholstered panel. Remove it and carefully remove the panel. With this, the nuts holding the grille will be visible.
In order for the adhesive to grip, you need a clean, slightly rough surface, so that the next step is to clean the ceiling, sand it a little and wash it. As the vinyl top will stick to the dents in the same way as the room paper, anyone with the car will look after the work is done. It is necessary to detach the loose paint, treat the metal under it with antioxidant and fill any hole it has.
The seams dividing the hood into three parts must be precisely positioned, otherwise it will be bent, and the seams themselves will be twisted. The next step is to mark the roof of the car with chalk, to indicate where the seams should fall. Check that the marks are well made by unfolding the vinyl over the ceiling - carefully not to erase the markings - and see if the seams are in effect aligned with the chalk signs.
The easiest way to place the vinyl in position is to fold it first in two over the car and paste one half after the other. The lining needs to be applied accurately; once the adhesive has grasped, there is little room for readjustment.
Turn the hood over the car, swallow the inside of the seams and crush the excess edges all along. This results in a smooth and smooth finish. Turn back the vinyl and align it with the chalk marks. Put on the back and stick a nail through each of the seams and pin them into the rubber rim of the rear window. This will hold the seams in position while holding the front of the vinyl. Fold the vinyl back in two.
Using a plastic trowel, apply the adhesive to the ceiling of the car and wait a few minutes until it becomes viscous. The adhesive must be distributed equally. Now, while someone else who needs to help you keeps your side of the vinyl sheet well separated from the ceiling, very carefully lower your half of the vinyl and put it in position on the ceiling. Lower it very slowly to avoid wrinkles and use the rag pad to match.
If a wrinkle is formed, grab the vinyl with both hands at a point in a straight line with the wrinkle and pull it hard. When this part of the hood is already in place, check again if the rubberized seams are in position with the chalk marks made earlier.
Then swallow the other half of the ceiling in the same way. If any deviated, return it to its place by pressing with your hands, but do not pull hard. When the vinyl sheet is already firm in place you can start with the edges of the ceiling. Apply an even layer of adhesive to the ceiling and vinyl on the strip between the seam and the gutter. Make sure that there is a line of adhesive inside the gutter itself; this is important because it will help prevent the hood from falling off slowly from the loose edge, through which water will penetrate.
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